CARIBOO: A TRUE AND CORRECT NARRATIVE, by Wm. Mark

All you who are thinking of going to Cariboo, Before starting out, please read this book through; 'Tis written by one who has been over the route And contains some hints useful to you, no doubt.

San Francisco, June 3rd, 1862. The Steamer "Brother Jonathan" leaves to-day for Victoria, crowded again with men and cattle from stem to stern, she steamed away from the dock precisely at five oÕclock in the evening. Stormy weather with a dense fog up till Thursday morning. Crossed the bar and entered the magnificent Columbia river, bounded on the right by the Washington territory with its lofty mountains, two we observed particularly, Mount Cent and Mount Hood, the latter we were informed, rose 17,000 feet above the level of the sea, and wore a perpetual crown of snow on his head, and not in constant dread, like a many monarchs of the earth of losing his crown. We passed out of the Columbia into the Williamette river, with its lovely scenery on each side. We stayed a few hours at a small place call Astoria, then steamed onward to Portland City, discharged some cargo and the passengers bound for the Salmon River Gold Mines. Portland City is pretty well situated, rather low, liable to be inundated when the river rises, which was the case at this time, we saw several parties boating in the streets; the buildings are all wood, the streets pretty well arranged, the city is surrounded with mountains and forests, containing some of the best and largest firs I ever saw.

A few miles further up the river stands Oregon City, the capital of Oregon territory. This is a great corn and fruit producing country'; wheat is sold for twenty-five cents per bushel; there are also a large quantity of cattle and horses raised here; beef is sold for three cents per pound; pigs and sheep are bought for a mere trifle. We left here on Monday morning, and steamed down the river; we stayed a short time at Astoria, and then hurried off to get across the bar before dark; we were oft attended with great danger, the bar being shallow, and the sea generally rough; we however got safe over before dark, and were once more ploughing our way over the Pacific ocean. We completed our sea travelling next day at three o'clock. The ship layed quietly at anchor in the harbour of Esquamalt, Vancouvers Island, and in a short time every passenger was once more on terra firma, not one sorry, I venture to affirm, in parting company with "Brother Jonathan," or any that belonged to him. We now shouldered our packs, and prepared to walk on to Victoria, four miles, being very hot, the road lying through a wood, the most of us got a good sweating, especially our friend Emmerson, who had got seventeen stone to carry, exclusive of his pack. In our journey through the wood, we passed a good many Indian Squaws, sitting and loitering by the way side, and when we reached Victoria, we found the Indians plentifully enough, a many of the Squaws dressed up in the height of fashion, leading an idle and dissipated life, and strange to say, were supported in their idle habits, by those of another complexion.

After looking about awhile, we found out we wanted something for the inner man, we therefore procured some provisions, and sent outside the city, and erected our tent, kindled a fire and cooked some refreshments, and partook thereof; after a while, we laid our bodies down to sleep for the first time, after the gipsy fashion. At a short distance from us, was an Indian encampment, well peopled, living in a very primitive state, their manners and customs appeared very strange to what we had been used to; but, which was likely to be our lot and portion for some time to come. We found them, however, to be very quiet and peaceable neighbours; this is more than I can say of the white men; one fellow worse for liquor, came betimes in the morning to our tent, and wished to show off a little, but, he found he could not get on very well; he bullied for a while, till we told him we should be forced to whip him, after which he calmed down and slunk away, and gave us no more trouble. Wednesday after breakfast, we went into the city, and rambled about for some time; there are several pretty good streets, in which are a good many brick buildings; but, a great part of the city is composed of wooden buildings.

All round the suburbs are covered with small wooden shanties, which are rented by the labouring classes, for which they pay from four to six dollars per month, a many of them are occupied by Indians and Chinamen, and they only have one room, in which they perform all their domestic duties, cooking, washing, eating, and sleeping. There are several churches and chapels, and a very pretty cemetery in the city. The Hudson Bay Company have got several large warehouses, and other place of business, along the quay, and a great amount of business they do: they have had a fine haul out of the Indians, in the skin trade, form many years past. Land has risen in value, in and around the city, and lucky was he, that secured any a few years ago. One party told me that ha had one lot for which he paid fifty dollars, which was now worth five thousand dollars, and there were two water side lots sold by auction, the first brought seven thousand five hundred dollars, the other lot, which was sold a week after for fifteen thousand dollars, purchased with Cariboo gold by Mr. Steele, one of the luck Caribooites. I, in company with John Emmerson, visited Governor Douglas, he received us kindly, entered freely into conversation with us, answered all our inquiries, and gave us such information as he thought would be useful to us on our forward journey, we fancy he didn't speak with much confidence of the Gold Diggings; he told us if we were not successful the first year, we were not to be disheartened, there was plenty of work on the roads. I didn't like the idea of coming ten thousand miles, to make roads in British Columbia, although many hundreds that came out on the same errand, had that to do, and glad to get it. When we were about leaving, he ordered his sergeant to show us through his gardens and orchard, which we found to be very pretty, all laid out in the Old Country style; he again came out and held another chat with us, --ordered us some refreshments, which we went and partook of, after which wishing long life and happiness to his excellency, we took our departure. We then went down into Victoria, procured such goods and chattels as we required for our journey; we then packed up our tents and blankets, and walked down to the quay, where we found the steamer "Elias Anderson," ready to start on her journey. We went on board, crowded as usual, --all for Cariboo. We left the quay about eleven o'clock, and steamed away through the channel and the sounds; rock after rock was passed in succession, till at length we found ourselves gliding away down the might Frazer river, with its thousand tributaries, which, in 1859, was the great scene of excitement. Thousands in search of the precious metal, and not a few woefully disappointed and ruined in the attempt, could a fearful tale unfold.

We arrived at Westminster City, shortly after eight in the evening, and had little time to see the place; we thought it a strange site for a city,-rocks all round, and surrounded with a forest. At a short distance from the city, we observed the barracks on a very extensive scale. The other steamer being ready, we took our places, and in a little time she puffed off the scenery. On each side the Frazer was very pretty; but, darkness setting in, deprived us of further sight. We sought out a place to rest awhile, and at early dawn we hastened on deck. Along the banks we observed a great deal of cultivation going on, by the first settlers, (Kanackermen,) brought here from the Sandwich Isles, by the Hudson Bay Company; also close upon the river were several parties of Celestials, with their rocking cradles, &c., seeking for gold dust. We also passed a many Indian camps, one very large settlement, just before we passed out of the Frazer into the Harrison River, at the mouth of which there was an Indian sanctuary, with its row of gods, of all shapes and sizes, some of the most hideous appearance, none of them remarkable for beauty; also, adjoining was a burial place, where a great many posts were erected, from which flags of various colours were hanging; also, some sheets and blankets, and on the top of one of the stakes were two guns fixed. On inquiry, we found that the remains of one of their (Tyhee) chiefs, a great warrior, was laid there; the blankets and linen we saw, were around him in sickness and death; the muskets were used by him when in warfare. A little further on we passed a large fishing village. In the river there appeared to be any quantity of salmon, they were leaping out of the water on all sides of us, and the Indians in canoes, seemed to capture them easily; also, a vast of them were strewed on the banks. Hundreds of dead fish, and thousands of birds of various kinds feeding upon them; and for wild ducks, the place was literally swarming with them. After a few more turnings and windings along the river, we entered the beautiful and expansive Harrison Lake, some sixty miles in length, and the beauty of the scenery on both sides for the whole distance to Douglas City, is indescribable. Mountains of great elevation, from five to ten thousand feet high, a many of them covered with perpetual snow, whilst their sides were densely covered with trees in full bloom, and vegetation and rich foliage adorned the base of the hills, presenting at one glance winter and summer. How wonderful and beautiful are the works of nature!

We arrived at Port Douglas about four in the afternoon, 13th June. Another wooden city among the rocks: we had fancied to ourselves, that, on our arrival here, our most difficult journey was over, but, lo and behold we were greatly mistaken. Before us lay four hundred miles of the roughest country ever seen; and for roads, we should have to take them as we found them, and moreover, we found we should have to pack with us as much food as we could conveniently carry, as we should have a difficulty in procuring it at the wayside houses, unless we paid extravagant prices; in order to do this, it was necessary to reduce our stock of clothing. I therefore, for once in my lifetime, had to act in the capacity of auctioneer, without license. We soon disposed of all but what we barely required,-the Indians and Chinamen having got some cheap lots. "'T is an ill wind that blows nobody good."

We purchased what we were likely to want, and then shouldered our packs and started away from Douglas; and proceeded about four miles to the first house. Here were purposed to remain for the night, having in this distance got a taste of the road; one place we had a fearful descent to make, down, down, several hundred feet. We made on a good fire, and rested awhile; some of the party cooked, and had refreshment. Others had a meal in the house for which they paid one dollar, after which we packed ourselves away for the night: some lay in a wooden shed; the rest, as many as could get, lay down on the floor of the house.

We rose a little after four in the morning, and took the road through the wood, and a wild look on we had: before and around us, gigantic mountains on all sides which we ascended and descended all the day; wading swamps and bogs, at intervals for a change. One swamp we came to, was impassable and laid right along the road for a considerable way, there was no way for us, but to scale the mountain side. We commenced, and a fearful struggle we had, having to climb several hundred feet, almost perpendicular, before we could get clear of the rocks below. My friend Emmerson was completely exhausted, and almost ready to give up the ghost: I encouraged him forward as well as I could, and after a few struggles we accomplished the task. We were some time before we got ourselves collected together again at the other side of the swamp, some of our party having got a good way out of the trail. We travelled on a few miles further, and them camped for the night; we made on a good fire, cooked and eat our suppers; heaped a good deal of wood on the fire, to keep away any intruders that might feel disposed to visit us. We crept into our tents, and laid our bodies down to sleep, and perhaps to dream of those we had left behind.

Through the day we passed a place called the hot springs, where the water bubbles up, in a very heated condition, so hot that you cannot bear your hand in it for any time. A speculator has turned this to a good account so far as he is concerned; he has erected buildings and private baths, which he recommends a beneficial for Rheumatic pains, a complaint very prevalent in this country, and no wonder, men sleeping on the ground night after night.

June 15, we walked for miles to the twenty-eight mile house. A small boat was just upon the point of leaving, a rush was made, and the boat was soon filled, and then started away over a lake, seven miles in breadth, and a very narrow escape they had from being drowned, in consequence of being over-crowded, the boat took in water, and a strong breeze blowing, it was nearly capsized several times. We with several others, crossed in a second boat, without any danger whatever. We passed some more groups of little and big Indian gods, placed on the side of the lake. We had now got two miles to walk through another wood, to the next lake, over which a steamer plied with goods and passengers, once a day. On our arrival the steamer had just left, and we were doomed to wait till next morning. We learned this was a game they regularly played; they tried to leave passengers, so that the keeper of the house might have a chance of plundering them. We pitched our tent, and spent the day the best way we could: some went into the cannions to look for gold; others to shoot; some to fish; and some climbed up the mountains a little way. We saw one at a distance that towered high in the heavens, and capped with snow, said to be fifteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. We all returned well tired, cooked some provisions, and had a jolly repast, and then to camp to wile away a few hours in sleep. Came on a very wet night; rose early next morning, breakfasted, packed up, and went down; took our places on the steamer, and in four hours were safely landed at Port Pemberton, the distance being twenty miles: charge, one dollar. Of all the places I ever saw selected for a town, this beats all; the houses or huts were all built of wood, stuck up here and there among the rocks; there was only one decent house in the lot, which was occupied as a store and grog shop, here you could get what the called a "Square meal," for one dollar; a glass of ale or grog for a quarter of a dollar; if you felt inclined to smoke a cigar you could get one for the same price. The log-huts were occupied by the packers and teamsters, two or three cabined together and doing all their own work. There was only one woman in the place, except the Indian squaws, and they were very numerous. There were several camps in and around the place, the people seemed to be quiet and inoffensive, yet repulsive to look upon, with their red painted faces; and still strange to say, many of the painted squaws, were picked up, and cohabiting with the white men. The Indians make great pretensions to religious matters,-strict observers of the Sabbath day,- it is from their assembling together on the Sunday, and their noisy made of worshipping, that informs the white men, what day of the week it is. The Catholic Priests have got the Indians under their tuition in this locality at present, and I am inclined to think they will not improve them much.

From Pemberton, a stage runs daily over the next portage, twenty-eight miles, if you go with it you will ride to the tune of eight dollars; this being the case, we preferred walking; we at once shouldered our packs, and started off through the woods again; but had not proceeded far, before our eyes were attracted by a notice on the wayside, "Cariboo the road to Ruin"; notwithstanding this, we posted on, and soon found ourselves walled in on both sides by the range of Cascade mountains, rough and rugged, showing at once there must have been some violent convulsions and upheavings in nature; they gave unmistakable proofs of Volcanic agency, the whole mass had been in a state of fusion in by-gone ages. Our attention was particularly called to one small mountain by the wayside, on the top of which is the distinct impression of a large foot-print. The Indian explanation of the matter is that once upon a time, the "Sackally Tyhee," Ð great spirit Ð descended and stood with one foot on this rock, and stept across the gulph below to a rock which was pointed out to us on the other side, where it bears the print of the other foot, if so, it was a fearful stride, I should say two or three miles at least: they do not tell us where he stepped to after that.

Having travelled upwards for twenty miles, the shades of night prevailing, we concluded to pitch our tent, and rest for the night: close by us was a beautiful rivulet so essential to gipsy life. After cooking and eating our suppers, we again stretched our weary limbs on mother earth, with the wide canopy of heaven for our curtains and the wild bear prowling around us, seeking whom he might devour; we however awoke all right in the morning, found ourselves under the tent, and not in the maw of the grizzly bear. We started off and tugged away over hill and dale, till we reached the lake about ten o'clock. The boat not leaving till two o'clock, we wiled away the time as well as we could. At last the shrill voice of the steamer was heard; we hastened on board, paid one dollar, and were soon on our way over Anderson lake. When in the middle, it appeared as though we were in a basin, the mountains towering high on all sides, we could not perceive a way out, however we did manage out, and arrived at the opposite side about five in the evening. We then walked tow miles, and were just in time to catch the steamer, which was to convey us over the third and last lake; she, like the rest, was soon crowded with human beings, all big with hopes and prospects of the golden harvest to be reaped ere long, by each and all, out of the creeks and cannions of the far-famed Cariboo.

Fatal delusion!-Oh! Frazer and White
Ye'll get your fairins;
In h---- they'll roast ye baith like herrins.

This lake being the same distance across as the last, in three hours we found ourselves at Seaton House, minus another dollar for our passage. Some stayed at the house all night, many walked forward a mile or two, and pitched their tents; our party proceeded forward to Lilleot City, four miles on our way. We passed beneath some towering cliffs, that had a frightful appearance, looming in the darkness; also by the side of our path for a while, was a rapid running river, that appeared so full of wrath and mischief, as though it would burst its bounds and sweep us and every other thing it came across, to destruction. We reached the city, tired, weary, and hungry as hunters, about ten in the evening. Some of the party sought fuel, and kindled a fire, others went off and purchased some provisions, and brought them to the camp, and a hearty repast was made by each and all.

After which, we walked down to the store,
And laid our weary bodies on the shop floor,
Which the baker had kindly allowed us to do;

Next morning we had a look through the town; it is situated on an extensive flat, between the chain of mountains, which follow the swiftly-running Frazer, almost down to the Gulph of Georgia. Lilleot is the most charming place I have seen in British Columbia; I like it better than Victoria, both for beauty and scenery. The houses were chiefly built of wood; there was one or two built of unburnt bricks, but the keen frosts of winter were telling upon them. We saw a good many Indians stirring about; they had a very ludicrous appearance, with their painted faces; also a great number of the tailed tribe from the Celestial Empire were waddling to and fro. After our ramble, we went down to the store, breakfasted of bread and milk, which was a great treat, having not seen any milk since leaving San Francisco. We purchased our stock of provisions, paying fifty cents per lb. of flour. We were here told we should have ere long, to encounter another troublesome enemy Ð the musquito Ð and in order to get along, we should have to provide what they call a musquito bar, it is a large piece of gauze netting, in which you completely envelope your head. Having got all we thought we should require, we started forward; in a little time we found ourselves standing by the side of the mighty Frazer, over which we must pass. Along the banks we saw a good many at work seeking for gold; we were told that they found it in quantities sufficient to pay them for their labour. The ferry boat having arrived, we made ready to cross. We had to go a long way up the river from the landing before getting into the boat, and although we did this, the current was running so strong, that on our arrival at the opposite side, we were driven a great distance below the landing place, I was glad when we arrived. We were charged fifty cents each. Our course now lay alongside the river, and for miles as we trudged on, we saw by the upturned ground, the pits and trenches that had been dug, and old flumes for washing out the gold, that all this was the effects of the gold excitement of 1859.

We remarked as we passed those relics, if we could but get the true history from those who labored here, it would be a fearful picture of sufferings and disappointments. I am inclined to think every ounce of gold taken out of the ground has cost more than its value: the few that have been successful do no compensate for the many that have been unsuccessful. The history of the California mines warrants this conclusion Ð it is a black history. Hundreds of families were broken up. How many husbands went out to the diggings, and never returned. What a vast number under the excitement were driven to madness. Visit Stockton Asylum, a town in Sacramento count, California, and you will there find it filled with madmen, constantly raving about their gold. I saw one wreck myself in Portland City, a madman their confined Ð all his cry was about the glittering dust. Then again, the men who were the most fortunate, who took out gold in abundance, were led away into extravagance and ruin; and it is an acknowledge fact, that the very most of them are amongst the poorest in the state, and pests to society.

The road we were travelling over, was very good, being the new road made by government. We had walked about ten miles from Lilleot, in reality we were only four to use a sea phrase, - we had boxed the compass round the mountain.

At this point we came across and Englishman labouring by the wayside, who had been induced to leave his home by the fabled reports of Cariboo; but had given up the journey at present for a bad bargain, he had heard so many unfavorable reports, and seen so many returning, he thought he would wait awhile. He told us he believed there was gold along the Frazer river, that could be got without going to Cariboo. We being at this time close upon the river, resolved to try our hands and see if Dame Fortune, (although a fickle dame in this country,) would smile upon us, I and my two sons descended the river, and commenced operations at once. We washed several pans of dirt, and found small specks in every pan, but not sufficient to pay us. We walked a little further up the river and came upon a party of Chinamen at work with their rockers, but not being able to understand their language, we could not learn how matters fared with them, they pointed out some pieces of gold in their apparatus, but they were very cautious in trying to give us any information on the subject. We saw several companies at work across the river, we however learnt, they could take out about tow dollars worth of gold per day. This would never do for us. Why, stop here for that when we were told by Mr. Frazer, that once at Cariboo, our fortunes were made. We could not go wrong, in every river, creek, and tributary, the precious metal was laying in abundance, and but little from the surface. With this impression, we hastened away, and soon found out that we had made a sad mistake. In our hurry down the hill we forgot we should have to return; there the hill stood before us in formidable array, and before we reached the summit, I was nearly exhausted. We then travelled on for a mile or tow, pitched our tents and rested for the night.

In the morning, betimes we journeyed forward over the hills and through the valleys, some places we took the old trail over the mountain tops. In preference to the circuitous route round the foot of the mountains, along the newly formed road, saving a few miles walking thereby. We came to where the road diverged, - one the government road, the other the old river trail, which we were told was fifty miles shorter route; we therefore took it, and our choice proved not a happy one. We found it to be one succession of mountains and swamps the whole way; likewise, we soon found it necessary to fold our heads in the musquito bars, to save us from being completely worried, they made a fearful attack upon us, and continue the warfare day and night, the whole journey through. I got rather amused nevertheless, with our friend Emmerson, he had never been in such company before, and was anxious to see the effects upon him. He allowed them to bore their proboscis quietly, and take their fill of claret; he soon to satisfied, - denounced them as terrible pests, and slew them without mercy. His sufferings from them were noting in comparison to what others suffered; some were completely disfigured and blinded with them, their hands swollen twice their usual size. In this condition we struggled on day by day; scaling mountains; plodding through valleys; and, to add to our troubles and damp our ardour, we met upon an average, seventy returning every day, in a wretched, miserable condition; relating heart-rending tales of their sufferings and privations; describing the place they had left, as cone complete scene of wretchedness and woe; hunger and starvation stalking through the length and breadth of the land.

Our journey after those reports was rendered anything but pleasant; 't was bad before, but, with such a fearful prospect looming in the future, made it doubly worse. Hints of returning oused out from time to time, - still we tugged on, and a fearful tug we had. One day a mighty mountain stood before us, and over it we must go if ever we reach Cariboo. After a good rest, we addressed ourselves to the task, which took us several hours to perform, and almost proved the last toil for poor Emmerson; he sunk several times quite exhausted; the day was fearfully hot, and no water to be had, - his thirst became intolerable. We encouraged him on as well as we were able Ð used stratagem by telling him we heard the water roaring ahead of us, and never shall I forget the emotion and pleasure we all experience, especially him, when we in reality did hear the glorious sound of water ahead, issued by the first there, and sent back as by electricity, till the last traveller on the mountain caught the news. We hurried on, and soon heard the water rushing in torrents down the mountain side. 'T was a mighty fall; when we arrived, how eagerly he clutched the cup, and would no doubt have done himself harm, had we not prevented him Ð I dragged the cup from him several times. Here we pitched our tent for the night, by the side of this glorious stream, which I have no doubt saved the life of one of our party at least, and had probably saved the lived of many others before.

Next morning before us stood another formidable mountain, designated the Big Slide, over which is a dangerous pass, being of a sandy nature, and by the side of the trail is a precipice, several hundred feet perpendicular, at the bottom of which, lay bleaching the skeletons of both men and animals, in one mass together.

A few more days and nights of miserable travelling, brought us to William's Lake, which place we reached on Wednesday, the 24th of June. The night before, while camping, we were visited by a bear. He took a survey all round our tents, - fell in with nothing to suit, except a bag, which he walked of with; it contained nothing but tins and cooking utensils, which rattled when he was hugging them off, and aroused one of our neighbours, who peeped out and saw his lordship retreating, so he returned for his revolver, but Mr. Shaggy took the hint, dropped the bag, and decamped as quickly as possible.

At William's Lake there was a vast number of returned Caribooites, and amongst the rest were several of our former travelling companions, who had been forty-five miles further up the country; but, found matters grew worse and worse Ð they returned, and this decided the fate of other two of our company. Emmerson and Marquis resolved to return along with them; thus reducing our party to three, myself and two sons. We however resolved to proceed, and see how matters fared at the terminus. Here we parted with our friends, which was not done without producing a keen and cutting emotion; how could it be otherwise! We had shared the troubles and dangers together, for ten thousand miles, and here we part, in a strange, wild country, perhaps never to see each other again! After we had provided ourselves with provisions, which we found were getting the farther we went, a very costly article; we started away with sad hearts and weary limbs. We entered the wood again, and walked on about two miles, darkness closing around us.

And the wood fowl had gone to her nest The wild beast had laid down in his lair; Even here we had great need of rest, So we to our tents did repair.

Next morning we started away about seven, and that day and the two following days, we walked, and waded over and through some awful roads and bogs, as ever laid out of doors.

We reached Quesnelle City on the evening of the 27th of June, tired, weary, and miserable, as it was possible for mortal men to be; we erected our tent, and decided to stay here a few days to recruit nature. I went and bought some flour, for which I paid eighty cents per pound; cooked and had some supper, and then laid down to rest. Next morning we found there was a large number of tents all around us, parties returning Ð others on their way. We here heard some more Doleful accounts of the diggings: also, of the next fifty miles we had to travel over, it got worse and worse. This place was filled with stores and warehouses, chiefly kept by Jews Ð their selfishness was injurious to the travellers, and a curse to the country. All the goods that came here, were packed on mules; but, from here over the next stage, they had to employ galloways; mules could not travel over the swamps. A good deal of provisions were packed from here to the diggings by men, who carried from one hundred to one hundred and fifty pounds on their backs; they charged thirty cents per pound; it took them six days to go and return. We purchased a stock of provisions for our forward journey, two fifty pound bags of flour, costing sixty-five dollars (£13), and this was considered cheap. We bought it of a party who had just come to the city; he was under-selling the thievish Jews, and in so doing was risking his life.

We left on the morning of the 30th of June, and in our travels through the day, we were overtook by an Englishman, we joined company and pulled on together, through mud, dirt and misery. He was from Derbyshire; he had left a first-rate situation in Chesterfield, - having read in the papers, Frazer's dazzling reports of Cariboo; he could not rest any longer, but started off in company with two younger brothers, for the Golden Valleys. He and his youngest brother arrived there Ð the other got a situation down in the country, and remained below. On their arrival they found provisions so high, that the eldest started back to Quesnelle City, leaving his brother to prospect the country, whilst he packed up provisions. He was returning with a pack on his back, of at least seventy pounds weight (pretty job for a banker's clerk), when we joined company. We encamped together for the night.

Next morning we passed Keithley Creek, the commencement of Cariboo. There was little doing here; one or two companies were working, but with little success. We had not proceeded far through the wood, when it began to thunder and lightning, accompanied with heavy rain, which continued all day and night. We erected a brush wood shanty, made on a good fire, and remained here till morning. We passed a very uncomfortable night, our blankets having got all wet, we slept very little. Next day was spent in wading swamps and climbing mountains; the wet day and night not having improved the roads at all, we arrived about mid-day at the foot of the great mountain, called Snow Shoes, but we durst not engage with him till we had a good rest and dinner; after which we started up, and after a few hours toiling and sweating we stood upon his snow-capped summit, with as magnificent a view before us as eye can behold, the whole range of Rocky Mountains lay stretched out in thousands before us, as far as the eye could reach; a vast number of them had their snow-crowned heads amid the clouds. It was a mountainous sight, underneath us, around us, on every side, east, west, north and south, were mountains. I can not describe the view, 'tis folly to attempt it, this view alone, I thought was worth all the troubles and hardships we had passed through, and at the moment I felt as though I could have forgive Frazer for what he had done, but again, when I thought how many hundreds, nay thousands through his false statements, had been brought to ruin and starvation, my feelings were changed.

We toddled down the other side, and when we reached the bottom there lay the Slough of Despond in reality; at it we went, and after a fearful struggle, we found ourselves at the other side, weary and fatigued; we resolved to camp here for the night. Next morning our Derbyshire companion started away without us. We purposed staying here for a day to prospect some creeks, that run along the foot of the Bald mountain, which we did, through the course of the day, without success, in fact, we never saw colour in the pan. Through the day a party of gold miners from New Zealand, in whose company we had previously travelled, but got ahead of us, and had been to Antler Creek, but in consequence of the dismal appearance of the place, everything looking the very picture of misery, they "bout ship," and passed us on their way back. Very disheartening news this, - coming from parties that had been roughing it for many years. Next morning we started out again. Through the night a circumstance transpired, that might have been fatal to one of our party; my son not being very well found it necessary to leave the camp; on returning, he came creeping in; I wakened at the moment and saw him, my first impression was, that it was a bear; in order to have time to get my revolver, I struck out with my foot, and sent him back; he shouted out just in time to prevent me shooting him.

A terrible day's travelling we had through swamps and quagmires, over fallen trees, ledges of rocks, bog-holes, of such a nature, that every step you took you didn't know but it would be your last; you might sink to rise no more. We crossed several gulphs filled with snow, from fifteen to twenty feet deep, and the road was literally covered with dead animals. Thus we struggled on, and finally reached Antlers Creek, tired and weary, about four o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th of July, and to a certainty, we found it a rough looking place, log huts, canvass tents, all over the place, ditches, pits, mounds of earth, flumes, trenches, and sluice boxes, pumps, &c., in fact, you hardly knew where to go. After wandering about awhile, we struck a place and pitched our tent, kindled a fire, had something to eat, and after awhile laid our weary bodies down to rest, but there was very little sleep for us that night; being the 4th of July, the Yankees were celebrating the gaining of their independence by burning the trees in the forest, discharging guns and revolvers, and making many other disagreeable noises the whole night long.

Next morning we started off up antlers Creek to seek the golden dust, and in going along we passed hundreds of places that had been prospected and abandoned. No treasure there to be found, we at length came to a place, which we considered likely, and commenced operations at once, worked hard all day, returned to the camp in the evening like many hundreds that day, without seeing colour in the wash-pan. Next day we returned to the same place: we did, however, find colour today, but that was all. We worked here some time, but were obliged to leave in consequence of water rising upon us.

Two other Englishmen, just below us, had been working for several days, but had found nothing; on of the gave up the job, packed up his kits, and started back; the other one, an old experience digger, who had been out to the Australian mines, joined us, and we went the whole hog day after day, and many were the holes we dug; in some of them we found gold, but not in quantities to pay, in fact I never heard of any parties striking it in this creek this season, sufficient to pay expenses. There were several companies at work, two or three claims were paying, one especially paying well, which I saw for myself; two or three times after they had cleaned up their sluice boxes in the evening, for their day's work, from eight hundred to a thousand dollars of gold in the pan, but even this company had been at an enormous expense, before getting their mine into operation, they were considerably in debt, and the danger was, before they got cleared up, the vein would work out, as was frequently the case.

There had been a great deal said about the richness of this creek, and the quantity of gold taken out from time to time; but not a word was said on the other side of the question, (one tale is good till another is heard) there had been several companies ruined at this creek. One company a party of eight Cornishmen, I was well acquainted with, were on ground adjoining this rich claim, we passed and repassed the place for many days; they took up eight claims, one hundred square feet to a claim, they had worked for months, had diverted the river, put in flumes, prepared their sluice boxes, got their pumps and all other necessary apparatus ready for work, and yet they never struck it in sufficient quantities to pay for working, and the day before we left Antlers Creek, they abandoned the place, and left it ruined men. This was the case with every other creek; some struck it rich, and this was blazed in every paper: the many lost all they had, and were completely beggared; this was never named but hushed down.

My opinion of the affair is, that there is gold, but not in every creek and cannion, nor is it laid just below the surface; it is laid in spots, and deep in the ground. The shallowest diggings I was or heard of were ten feet deep; but in most places gold was found at a depth of from twenty to thirty feet, and in some places much deeper even that this; and for the dry diggings mentioned by Frazer, they were not found when I left Cariboo. Water was the greatest enemy we had to contend with in most places we prospected; we were driven out with water, we could not reach the bed-rock, even with pumps, we were defeated, and the water was fearfully cold. The general cry was, "We can't get down for water."

We worked on till the 19th of July, but never made a cent; the cost of living was awfully high, provisions cost me for three of us, nine dollars per day (thirty-six shillings.) Flour, four shillings per pound, sometimes five shillings, many times for days together there was none to be had; Bacon from four to five shillings per pound; Beans, four shillings; Sugar, four shillings; Tea and Coffee, twelve shillings; Beef, two shillings; as for Salt, it was a luxury to get it; if you got what served a meal, it cost a shilling. Every other thing was equally dear, if you went to a Restaurant you had to pay two and a half dollars (ten shillings) for a dinner.

Fine country this to come to. As for the weather, we had rain either through the day or night, all the time we stayed; and the last day we were working, we came upon ground so hard frozen, that it was with difficulty we broke it up.

Quite satisfied, and sick of the place, we packed up our trap-sticks, and walked off on the 20th of July. All the ground was white with hoar frost, and the morning was cold as Christmas, I felt a glow of pleasure, when I got my back turned of one of the most disagreeable and inhospitable places man ever lived in.

We remained in the country below sometime, but before I left Port Pemberton in October, Cariboo was buried deep in snow, and report said that seventeen hundred pack animals had perished in the storm, and a vast number of men were missing. A fine specimen this of a great agricultural country, possessing a first-rate climate. I feel astonished above all things, that David Frazer does not at once go out, and take up his abode there.

I sailed from Victoria on the 19th of November; and arrived in England on the 4th of February, 1963.